Aerial view of Murano

Although Venice is a compact city there are many attractions and things to do and see. However, if you have the time, exploring the other smaller islands is a wonderful break from the hubbub of Venice and also gives an idea of the geography and history of the lagoon and the people who made their homes here.

All of the islands are accessible by the vaporetto, see ‘getting there’ under each island. Tour companies also offer excursions ranging from a half day to a full day to explore the islands, starting from different departure points. These organised boat trips include a commentary on the boat as well as allowing free time to explore the islands.

Murano

Murano is the second largest island in the lagoon next to Venice, also made of seven smaller islands connected by bridges with its own grand canal. Like the other islands it was settled early after the fall of the Romans. Originally the island depended on fishing and the salt trade, but everything changed in 1291 when the Viennese Republic ordered the glass makers of Venice to move to the island of Murano, for fear the furnaces were a fire hazard to the mostly wooden buildings. From this point onwards Murano’s glassmakers held a monopoly on high-quality glassmaking for centuries. They developed and refined their craft producing clear glass, enamelled glass (smalto), glass with threads of gold (aventurine), multi-coloured glass (millefiori), milk glass (lattimo), and imitation gemstones. Murano chandeliers particularly were sought after. The glass makers were so important that the Republic refused to let them move

Murano Glass Musuem

Today the island continues its production and they are still masters of this time-honoured craft. Many of the workshops will offer demonstrations for a small fee and it is astonishing watching them work with such speed and skill. Be warned! These ancient skills do not come cheap and Murano glass is as costly as ever – beware of imitations found all over Italy.

Visitors can enjoy the Murano Glass Museum in the Palazzo Giustinian, which explains the history of glassmaking and has a collection of glassware from Egyptian times to the present day.

A curiosity of the island is its lighthouse made of Istrian stone, which although far from the sea, serves to light the lagoon and the harbour mouth.

Once Murano had a number of churches and monasteries although these have mostly disappeared, ruins of which can be seen. The cathedral of Murano the Basilica of Santa Maria and San Donato is a 7h century basilica with some extraordinary relics behind the altar; a set of large rib bones said to belong to a dragon killed by San Donato.

Getting to Murano: A number of vaporetto lines stop at Murano

from Fondamente Nove – lines 12, 4.1, or 4.2

from San Zaccaria (near Piazza San Marco) – lines 4.2 or 4.1, and Line 7 (High Season)

Burano

As Murano is famous for its glass, Burano has a long tradition of making fine handmade lace. It is also famous for its colourful houses which make it an enchanting place to spend a few hours. The main square Piazza Galuppi is lined with restaurants and shops, many of which offer demonstrations of lacemaking.

Burano was already well known for its intricate and delicate lace when Leonardo di Vinci bought a piece for the Milan Duomo in the 1470s. After the wife of the Doge Morosina Morosini created a workshop for the production of needle lacework, Burano became a specialised production centre. Louis IV of France reportedly wore a lace collar to his coronation that took a specialist team of Buranella lace makers two years to make. Today you can visit the Museum of Lace, housed in an historic palace where lace was made until 1970. Although the demand for lace has declined artisans still produce intricate handmade pieces which you can buy in Burano.

The houses of Burano are painted in bold colours; according to legend it was so the fishermen could see their home as they approached from the lagoon. In fact, the colours were used to mark the boundaries of properties and today the colours are strictly regulated – owners must apply to the government who will issue a choice of the colours allowed.

If you are stopping in Burano for lunch there are a number of excellent fish restaurants. The traditional local dish is risotto de gò, a creamy risotto made with ghiozzo (go), a fish from the lagoon. You should also sample the local biscuits ‘Bussolà’ which are often dipped in sweet wine.

Getting there: Line 12 on the Vaporetto from St Marks Square. The journey takes around 45 minutes.

Torcello

Torcello is the smallest and least inhabited of the islands, where time really stands still. Visitors can get a real sense of the history of the lagoon on this tiny, sleepy island. in fact, Torcello was the first island of the lagoon inhabited by settlers fleeing the mainland at the end of the Roman empire. In the 7th century Torcello became the official seat of the bishop and remained so for a thousand years. One of the main attractions of the island is the basilica of Santa Maria Assunta perhaps the most ancient of the Venetian churches decorated in Byzantine style with beautiful 12th century mosaics. Guided tours of the Basilica are possible and there is a small fee to climb the bell tower.

The Torcello Museum is housed in the only remaining palazzos on the island, which were once the seat of government. There are a number of archaeological finds from the late Roman, Byzantine and Medieval period. Visitors will be struck by an ancient stone chair, affectionately known as Attila’s Throne. Although it is later than Attila, it may have been the bishop’s throne, or the seat where chief magistrates were inaugurated. Although Torcello was an active and busy trading post in the Medieval period, by the 14th century the shifting floor of the lagoon meant that traders could no longer stop at Torcello and over time the island was mostly abandoned.

Today only a handful of families live there which is why it feels like time stands still. Although many famous artists and writers have stayed on the island for its sleepy charms including Ernest Hemingway and Daphne du Maurier.

There are a few excellent restaurants on Torcello that serve typical Venetian dishes, most inspired and influenced by the fish in the lagoon.

Getting there: The LN Water Bus line runs from Fondamenta Nuovo or San Zaccaria to Torcello (approximately 50 minutes)

You can also take the vaporetto from Burano, vaporetto line 9 runs between the two islands every half hour from 8:00 until 20:30.