Venice Districts

The city of Venice is a cluster of islands built up around the famous Grand Canal. Like most Italian cities, Venice is divided into quarters or districts – there are six of them known as ‘sestieri’ (sesto means six). Each district has a character of its own with unique attractions and atmosphere. Tourist attractions are mainly centred around the district of San Marco, but if you are looking to escape the crowds there are plenty of things to see off the beaten track. Not only is there a less hectic pace in the other districts away from the main attractions, but you will see a more genuine slice of Venice; locals relaxing in piazzas while their kids play, traditional eateries and of course lower prices.

Santa Croce

Santa Croce is the first district that visitors will see, as Piazzale Roma the transport hub of Venice and the only part connected to the mainland by road is here. The western side is industrial with a car park and the island Tronchetto where there are a number of ferry stops. The eastern side is an area of contrasts with the hubbub and chaos of people arriving and leaving the city, yet away from Piazzale Roma the area has some charming little squares and picturesque canals.

The district is named after the monastery of Santa Croce which no longer exists; it was demolished in 1810. The Giardino Papadopoli, a small public park, now stands on the site which is a wonderful area of greenery amongst the canals. There are no major tourist attractions here which means a slower pace which can be enjoyed in one of Venice’s loveliest little squares, Campo San Giacomo dell’Orio named after the church, parts of which date back to the 9th century.

• San Giacomo dell’Orio – a very old church with some interesting historical features.
• Ca’ Pesaro – Baroque palace with Venice’s Museum of Modern Art which showcases contemporary art and Asian decorative arts.
• San Stae – church dedicated to Sant’Eustachio, facing the Grand Canal.
• The Natural History Museum at Fondaco dei Turchi on the Grand Canal.
• Palazzo Mocenigo – palace open to the public, with displays of historic costume

Cannaregio

The Cannaregio district is the only one you can take a ferry through, via the Cannaregio Canal and the Grand Canal. Cannaregio is Venice’s liveliest district with some tourist attractions yet it retains its authentic atmosphere. Fondamenta Ormesini is one of the best spots to enjoy a genuine Venetian night out along the picturesque canals, from Aperitivo to after-dinner drinks; this is also a great place to watch the sunset while sipping an Aperol Spritz.

Originally a working-class district where the foundries were, Cannaregio was chosen for the first Jewish Ghetto founded in the 16th century. Restrictions on daily Jewish life continued for more than 270 years; bridges were closed by guarded gates which were locked from sunset till dawn. Today you can stroll through the area and visit the three parts of the ghetto. The Jewish Museum of Venice (Museo Ebraico di Venezia) is in the Campo del Ghetto Nuovo, with the same ticket they take you to visit the Scole, or synagogues. See our blog on the Jewish Ghetto for more about the history of the area.

There are three beautiful bridges you should see: Ponte degli Scalzi (Bridge of the Barefoot Monks), Ponte delle Guglie (Bridge of Spires), and Ponte dei Tre Archi (Bridge of the Three Arches). You can also find the Church of the Madonna dell’Orto, the Church of Santa Maria dei Miracoli, and what was the old Jewish Quarter, the home of the city’s Jewish community in the past.

San Polo

Across the canal from San Marco is San Polo, the smallest and oldest sestiere in Venice which can be accessed across the famous Rialto Bridge. San Polo developed around the Rialto market which dates back a thousand years, it is still the main market for fish, fruit and vegetables. From the early morning the area is bustling with locals and visitors and in the evenings, there is a lively bar scene with locals drinking Aperitivo by the canals.

San Polo has some busy tourist spots but much of the district consists of quieter lanes and pleasant squares. The hub of the area and the largest open space in Venice after Piazza San Marco is Campo San Polo, an irregular square where local children and dogs run and play while adults chat. In the summer the square hosts an open-air cinema.

Main attractions are the Rialto bridge and Rialto Markets but other highlights include:

• Church of San Giacomo di Rialto (the oldest in the city)
• Campo San Polo with the Church of San Polo,
• the House of Goldoni
• Church of Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari,
• Church of San Rocco and the Scuola Grande di San Rocco.

Dorsoduro

The Dorsoduro district is a lively residential area which is split by the Giudecca canal. This area has an artsy vibe thanks to the numerous galleries here. Dorsoduro hosts the city’s university, Ca’ Foscari, housed in a Gothic palace of the same name. Students street artists and artisans mingle and the businesses and shops centre around the arts. There is a wealth of fine art and architecture to be seen in Dorsoduro including the city’s finest art collections at the Gallerie dell’Accademia and Peggy Guggenheim Collection; not to mention some must-see churches.

The hub of the area Campo Santa Margherita is filled with unpretentious eateries, indie shops and vintage fashion boutiques. In the evening, the informal bars draw bohemian local crowds for Aperitivos.

Fondamenta delle Zattere which stretches along the Giudecca Canal is one of the most picturesque areas of Venice for an evening stroll; locals flock here at night to relax and unwind from the city’s stressful pace of life and enjoy the ancient local taverns or baccari.

Other highlights include:

• Basilica of Santa Maria della Salute
• Ca’Rezzonico a prestigious palace on the grand canal

Giudecca

The island of Giudecca, which is often overlooked by tourists, has a calm that is difficult to find elsewhere in Venice. Originally known for its elegant residences with fine gardens, by the early 20th century, the island had become an industrial zone with shipyards and factories and its own film studio. As a result, Giudecca is a mix of architectural styles from several eras; churches and palazzos to towering converted warehouses, refugee housing and the women’s prison.

If you are looking for fresh local produce but don’t want the hustle and bustle of Rialto Market the Giudecca is a wonderful spot for food shopping along the Fondamenta Santa Eufemia on Thursdays from 9-12 where there is a local market.

San Marco

San Marco is the heart of Venice named after the patron saint of the city. Originally called ‘Rivo Alto’ this is where the settlers arrived after fleeing the smaller islands and from where the Rialto bridge takes its name. This was the political and administrative centre of the Venetian Republic for over a thousand years. It is the most well-known part of Venice for Piazza San Marco – the iconic square dominated by the Basilica San Marco and its looming Bell Tower and the Doge’s Palace. Many of Venice’s most visited monuments are in this area.

Because of the number of attractions in this area, restaurants surrounding the square are mostly fine dining and are expensive. Crossing over to San Polo or Dorsoduro, you will find more reasonable osterias at possibly half the price!

Other highlights:

• The Clocktower
• Bridge of Sighs (Ponte dei Sospiri)
• Basilica of San Giorgio Maggiore
• San Moisè Church
• La Fenice Theatre (Venice’s main opera house)

Castello

Castello is the largest of Venice’s six districts and the only one not flanked by the Grand Canal. The section bordering St. Mark’s Square is dotted with luxury hotels and often chaotic with tourists, but the further eastwards you go, the more laid-back it gets with casual bars where locals stop for a glass of wine. Castello has the longest pedestrian street in Venice, the buzzing Via Garibaldi which has shops and eateries for every budget. Along the southern shore is the Riva (riverside) where there are nice bars and beautiful views at sunset.

The Eastern part of Castello is certainly more residential and spacious – there are a number of gardens and public parks where locals go to relax, take a walk and go jogging. A large part of the district is taken up by the huge Arsenal (Arsenale di Venezia). These former shipyards were responsible for the bulk of the Venetian Republic’s naval power from the late middle ages to the early modern period and were the earliest large-scale industrial enterprise. Strolling along the quiet canals today it is difficult to imagine the traffic that once passed through the huge gates to the Arsenal. The Venice Naval Museum is here and the area is also used for the Biennale.

Past the Arsenal you will find Giardini della Biennale and the pavilions that house the Biennale exhibition of contemporary art (see our blog Art in Venice).

Other highlights include:

• Church of San Zaccaria
• Basilica of Santo Giovanni e Paolo
• The Grand School of San Marco with paintings by Tintoretto